The legendary "Thousand and One Columns" cistern
The Cistern of Philoxenos, known in Turkish as Binbirdirek Sarnıcı (literally "Thousand and One Columns"), is one of the oldest and largest Byzantine cisterns in Istanbul. Built in the 4th century during the reign of Constantine the Great, it was commissioned by Roman Senator Philoxenos to supply water to his palace and the surrounding area.
Despite its name suggesting 1,001 columns, the cistern actually contains 264 columns arranged in 12 rows of 22 columns each. The exaggerated name reflects the awe it inspired in those who discovered it centuries later, giving it an almost mythical quality.
Binbirdirek
Thousand and One Columns
The name "Binbirdirek" (meaning "thousand and one columns" in Turkish) is a folk etymology that arose when locals rediscovered the forgotten cistern. The forest of columns appearing to stretch endlessly in the dim light inspired exaggerated estimates of their number.
In reality, there are 264 columns, but their impressive height (approximately 15 meters) and the cistern's vast dimensions create an illusion of infinite columns extending into the darkness.
"The number 1,001 also echoes the famous tale of 'One Thousand and One Nights,' adding to the cistern's exotic and mysterious aura."
264 columns, each approximately 15 meters high, create a forest-like atmosphere. The columns are arranged in 12 rows of 22 columns, all connected by impressive arches.
Unlike other cisterns that used marble columns, Binbirdirek's columns are made of brick and mortar, giving it a more rustic, industrial appearance.
Cross-vaulted brick ceilings span the entire space, demonstrating sophisticated Roman engineering techniques adapted for water storage.
Built by Roman Senator Philoxenos during Constantine the Great's reign as a private water supply for his palace complex.
Possibly expanded or renovated during Justinian I's reign as part of Constantinople's expanded water infrastructure.
After the conquest, the cistern continued to be used for a time but eventually fell into disuse as new water systems were developed.
The cistern was used for various purposes including storage and workshops. A silk workshop operated here for many years.
The cistern was restored and opened to visitors, though it remains less commercialized than the Basilica Cistern.
Now serves as a museum and event space, hosting exhibitions, concerts, and cultural events in its atmospheric underground setting.
Unlike the busy Basilica Cistern, Binbirdirek offers a more peaceful, contemplative experience. The smaller crowds allow visitors to truly appreciate the ancient architecture and imagine its historical significance.
The brick columns and more modest lighting create an authentic, almost archaeological atmosphere. This cistern feels less like a tourist attraction and more like a historical discovery.
The cistern regularly hosts classical music concerts, art exhibitions, and cultural events. The excellent acoustics make it a unique venue for acoustic performances.
Unlike other cisterns, Binbirdirek features a café and restaurant area where visitors can enjoy refreshments in this unique underground setting.
| Feature | Binbirdirek | Basilica |
|---|---|---|
| Age | Older (4th century) | Newer (6th century) |
| Columns | 264 brick columns | 336 marble columns |
| Atmosphere | Quieter, less touristy | Busier, more dramatic |
| Highlights | Authentic feel, café | Medusa heads, lighting |
| Best For | History enthusiasts | First-time visitors |
This cistern is generally quieter than the Basilica Cistern, making any time a good time to visit. However, early mornings are still most peaceful.
Typically less expensive than the Basilica Cistern while offering a comparable historical experience with added amenities like the café.
The brick columns and arches create interesting textures for photography. Less crowding means easier composition.
Allow 30-45 minutes, or longer if you plan to enjoy the café. The relaxed atmosphere invites lingering.
Consider visiting all three major cisterns in one day. They're all located in the Sultanahmet area within walking distance.
Look for special events like concerts or exhibitions. Experiencing the space during a performance adds another dimension.
Experience one of Istanbul's oldest cisterns in a peaceful, authentic atmosphere